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Dangers & Annoyances
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Drugs
Indonesia has demonstrated its zero-tolerance policy towards drugs with a spate of high-profile arrests and convictions recently. In 2005 Australian Schapelle Corby captured news headlines around the world when she was arrested in Bali for allegedly smuggling 4kg of marijuana into the country. She received a 20-year prison sentence. In the same year five Australians were caught with several kilograms of heroin strapped to their bodies at Denpasar airport. Along with their accomplices they became known (sensationally) as the ‘Bali Nine’. Seven received life sentences (later reduced to 20 years) and two were sentenced to death by firing squad.
Indonesia has also become something of an Asian centre for ecstasy, which fuels the local rave scenes in Bali, Jakarta and other big cities. In August 2005, the Indonesian government announced random raids of nightclubs in Jakarta and Bali and mandatory urine tests for anyone found with drugs. Several foreigners have consequently been arrested and convicted. There is no differentiation between ‘personal use’ and ‘distribution’ and even one pill is sufficient to land you in jail for many years. Hotel owners are also required by law to report offenders.
In areas where nightclubs are concentrated, such as Bali, you’ll still get plenty of offers. More often than not those ‘buddha sticks’ are banana leaves, ‘hashish’ is boot polish and ‘ecstasy’ is a multicoloured Panadol. But taking any risks is just stupid.
Personal Space
You tend to get stared at when in places few foreigners visit, but overall, Indonesians stand back and look, rather than gather around you. Those who do come right up to you are usually kids. The other habit which is altogether ordinary to Indonesians is touching between those of the same gender. The Indonesians are an extraordinarily physical people: they’ll hold onto your knee for balance as they get into a bemo, reach out and touch your arm while making a point in conversation, or simply touch you every time they mean to speak to you. All this is considered friendly.
Safety
In the wake of the 2002 and 2005 Bali bombings, Indonesians have made ongoing efforts to revive what was already a suffering tourist industry. There has been an increase in security measures at airports and tourist centres and extremist organisations have been closed down or disbanded. It’s impossible to say where such attacks will or won’t occur, yet the image Indonesia has been tainted with since the bombings – as a terrorism hotspot – has been damaging.
Security issues in Indonesia are often exaggerated by the foreign media, who make it seem like the whole nation is in turmoil. Foreign governments add to the hype with heavy-handed, blanket travel warnings. While it’s true that small sections of Indonesia experience flashes of conflict, overall the archipelago is quite safe. Government travel warnings have the potential to protect travellers from risk, but their impact on local tourism industries is decimating. Maluku in particular is experiencing a burst of growth and calm, and travel there is far easier and safer than ever. Yet the province is still on the ‘do not travel’ list in many travel advisories.
On the other hand, regional and separatist conflicts remain an ongoing problem in Papua. Western mining companies are targeted by frustrated indigenous people here and also in Nusa Tenggara. But most people know the difference between a multinational and a tourist and conflicts rarely affect travellers.
Of course the best ways to ensure your safety are to keep abreast of the news, plan accordingly and apply common sense. Check official travel advisories. Monitor local and international media reports and seek the advice of other travellers and locals.
Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree is an online travel forum and another excellent source of information.
The Best advice
If travelling to a potentially risky region of Indonesia check the safety situation with your embassy in Jakarta, or the travel advisory on its website, but bear in mind that these generally take a conservative and overly cautious view.
Government travel advisories:
Australia (%1300 139 281)
Canada (%1 800 267 6788)
Germany (%030-5000 2000)
Japan (%03-3580 3311)
Netherlands (%070 3486486)
New Zealand (%04-439 8000)
UK (%0845 850 2829)
US (%1-888 407 4747)
Scams
As in most poor countries, plenty of people are out to relieve you of your money in one way or another. It’s really hard to say when an ‘accepted’ practice like overcharging becomes an unacceptable rip-off, but plenty of instances of practised deceit occur.
Con artists are always to be found. Usually those smooth talkers are fairly harmless guides seeking to lead you to a shop where they receive a commission. Just beware of instant friends and watch out for excessive commissions. Yogyakarta’s batik salespeople fall into this category.
As the main tourist destination, Bali is the home of many scams. Is it possible for a Kuta moneychanger not to short-change you? Then there’s the friendly local who discovers a serious problem with your car or motorbike and urgently gets one of his contacts to fix it for you, for an outrageous amount of money.
An invite to visit a traditional Balinese village from an instant friend may end up with a hard-luck story designed to extract money. It is almost always a con. Indonesia is full of heart-wrenching stories of hardship and poverty, and Bali is better off than most provinces. Most Indonesians suffer in silence and would never ask for money; consider giving to aid programmes if you want to help.
Another scam involves being invited to someone’s house, then introduced to a card game where you can’t lose. Of course, you do lose – big time. These gangs move around.
In Jakarta, police impostors searching foreigners for drugs and trying to extract money have been reported.
Theft
Theft can be a problem. However, if you are mindful of your valuables and take precautions, the chances of being ripped off are small. Most thefts are the result of carelessness or naivety. The chances of theft are highest in crowded places and when travelling on public bemo, buses and trains.
Pickpockets are common, and their crowded bus and train stations are favourite haunts, as are major tourist areas. Compared to most Indonesians, tourists are rich and this attracts thieves. Bali, particularly Kuta, is No 1 in the thievery stakes, closely followed by the other main tourist areas of Yogyakarta and Lombok. The thieves are very skilful and often work in gangs – if you find yourself being hassled and jostled, check your wallet, watch and bag. The Bahasa Indonesia word for thief is
pencuri. In Kuta, the gangs of small children waving necklaces for sale are notorious pickpockets.
Do not leave your valuables unattended, and in crowded places hold your handbag or day pack closely. A money belt worn under your clothes is the safest way to carry your passport, cash and travellers cheques.
Keep an eye on your luggage if it’s stored on the roof of a bus; bag slashing and theft from bags next to you inside the bus are also hazards. Locks on your bags are mandatory – travelling without them is like waving a ‘come and get it’ banner.
Java and Sumatra are the worst places for theft on buses. Organised gangs board the bus and take the seat behind you. If you fall asleep or put your bag on the floor, they will slash it and be gone with your gear before you know it. The chances of this happening are very slight, but the gangs do target tourists. Economy buses are the worst but travelling deluxe is no guarantee.
Always lock your hotel-room door and windows at night and whenever you go out, even if momentarily. Don’t leave valuables, cash or travellers cheques lying around in open view inside your room. It is wise to keep valuables hidden and locked inside your luggage; better hotels have safe storage facilities.
Report any theft to the police, but without witnesses don’t expect action. Bus companies and hotels will automatically deny any responsibility. Reported theft is usually termed
kehilangan, or ‘loss’ – you lost it and it is your responsibility to prove theft. Police will provide a report, which is necessary for replacement passports and travellers cheques, and for insurance claims.
Be wary and know where your valuables are at all times – but at the same time remember that the overwhelming majority of Indonesians are honest and will go out of their way to look after a visitor. Out in the villages, far removed from the big cities and tourist areas, theft is a foreign concept.
Lonely Planet recommends World Nomads Travel insurance
