Destination: Japan
LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION
Itinerary: Folk Tales & Castles
1-2 WEEKS/NORTHERN HONSHU
The 520km Folk Tales & Castles route, which involves around 19 hours of train travel, takes you through the historically rich regions of northern Honshu. The highlights of this route include the temple complex of Chuson-ji and the restored samurai district in the town of Kakunodate. The mountain scenery along the way is an added bonus.
Take the shinkansen to Koriyama, then the local line to Aizu-Wakamatsu, a town devoted to keeping alive the tragic tale of the White Tigers, a group of young samurai who committed ritual suicide during the Boshin Civil War; the cause of their angst was the destruction of Aizu's magnificent Tsuruga-jo (since reconstructed). From Koriyama, take the shinkansen to Ichinoseki, then the local line to Hiraizumi. Once ruled by the Fujiwara clan, Hiraizumi was a political and cultural centre informed by Buddhist thought - it rivalled Kyoto until it was ruined by jealousy, betrayal and, ultimately, fratricide. Today, Chuson-ji, a mountainside complex of temples, is among Hiraizumi's few reminders of glory, with its sumptuous, glittering Konjiki-do, one of the country's finest shrines. From Hiraizumi, take the local train to Morioka, then a shinkansen/local combination to the Tono Valley, where you might encounter the impish kappa (water spirits). The region is famous for its eccentric folk tales and legends, and a number of its attractions will put you in the mood for a spot of old-time ghostbusting. From Morioka, take the shinkansen to Kakunodate, a charming town that promotes itself as 'Little Kyoto'. With its impeccably maintained samurai district - a network of streets, parks and houses virtually unchanged since the 1600s - it's one of northern Honshu's most popular attractions.
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