Destination: Spain

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION

Itinerary: Extreme West

ONE WEEK/SALAMANCA TO SEVILLE

For many travellers, the plateresque joys of the university town of Salamanca, in western Castilla y Leon, are well known, but relatively few venture south into what was long one of the poorest regions of Spain.

A back highway leads into the hill territory of the Pena de Francia, whose main village is pretty La Alberca. You would never guess that, until recent decades, misery ruled in this quiet rural retreat. The road continues to climb and then suddenly drops through woods into the region of Extremadura, passing into the once equally poor Las Hurdes region to reach Plasencia to the southeast. Jammed with noble buildings, churches and convents, it was for centuries the principal city of the region, and makes a good base for excursions up the region's northeast valleys and to the Monasterio de Yuste. From Plasencia, a circuit takes you first to the charming hill town of Guadalupe, lorded over by the monastery complex dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe. Country roads then lead westward to the medieval town of Trujillo, a fascinating warren of cobbled lanes, churches and the newer Renaissance era additions that were the fruit of American gold. A short drive further west lies the compact, ochre-coloured medieval jewel of Caceres, a town with a lively student nightlife scene, too. To the south stand some of Spain's most impressive Roman ruins in Merida. Further south again across the dry plains lies the white town of Zafra. Rather than continue straight into Andalucia, make a westward detour to the hilly town of Jerez de los Caballeros before finally heading southwest for magical Seville.

This 810km route opens up the largely unexpected treasures of Extremadura, wedged between two much better-known cities: the Castilian university town of Salamanca in the north and the sparkling sultry mistress of the south, Seville. Along the way you'll discover the Roman wonders of Merida, fine medieval cities, and the enchanting towns of La Alberca, Guadalupe and Zafra.

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