Destination: Sri Lanka

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION

Itinerary: East by North

THREE WEEKS

Rumble through humid coastal plains, relax on deserted beaches and transit Tamil Eelam, Sri Lanka’s country-within-a-country – this 553km route promises a trip that’s as thought-provoking as it is attractive.



Sri Lanka’s North and East region feels like a different country. And in some places, controlled by the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), it effectively is. Just be sure to check the security situation before embarking on the trip.

Start off in the delightfully laid-back surf beach of Arugam Bay, then head to Ampara to see elephants parade past the Peace Pagoda as though timetabled. Having peeked into dramatic Gal Oya National Park from atop Inginyagala Dam, continue north to the intriguing city of Batticaloa and have a splash at the deserted beach at Kalkudah.

Get your first taste of Tamil Tiger territory by taking the post bus on to Mutur, from where ferries cross Koddiyar Bay into Trincomalee, arguably the world’s finest deep-water harbour. Recover from the bumpy trip with an agreeably restorative stay at the beaches of Uppuveli or Nilaveli, and do a little diving at Pigeon Island.

Then, cut inland to Vavuniya to prepare for an eye-opening journey to Jaffna. This takes you through what the locals call Tamil Eelam (Tamil Precious Land), the unrecognised but de facto country run by the Tamil Tigers, complete with its own police force, banks and even a kind of visa (available at the border).

You’ll eventually arrive in Jaffna, an intriguing city of contradictions: officially government controlled yet loyal to the Tigers, welcoming and friendly but with a heavy military presence, lushly comfortable in its suburbs despite a bombed-out centre.