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While Sri Lanka is arguably the easiest place in which to travel in all of South Asia, a little advance knowledge and planning will go a long way towards making your trip more fulfilling, hassle-free and fun.
For the most part you’ll find that larger towns – and even smaller towns with a highly developed tourism infrastructure – cater to all travel budgets. In places more off the beaten track, especially those in the Hill Country and in the North, luxury accommodation and high-standard dining are relatively hard to find, but the offerings are usually sufficient for all but the most finicky travellers.
The 12 August 2005 assassination of then foreign minister Lakshman Kadirgamar by a suspected Tiger sniper heightened political tensions and security concerns in Sri Lanka. While thus far travellers are unlikely to encounter violence, added caution may be needed when travelling in the North and Northeast.
Women Travelling in Sri Lanka
Jessa Boanas-Dewes
Before a recent trip to Sri Lanka I was told the country was ‘really chilled – way more relaxed than India’. From what I could gather, dressing demurely was a good idea but not essential.
I’d tried to pack long skirts and shirts but decided to get more clothes when I arrived. Unfortunately, finding nonsynthetic clothing that fitted me (or that I vaguely liked!) proved difficult. When I was able to find some clothes, I found that dressing conservatively really made a positive impact on the way I was treated. Sarongs were particularly helpful for creating a baggy layer over a singlet or shirt.
Unabashed staring from men made me feel very uncomfortable and I got the distinct impression that foreign women are regarded as more sexually ‘available’ than local women, who are carefully chaperoned. It’s worth keeping in mind that you’ll mostly talk to men, who are the drivers, waiters and hotel owners. Sri Lankan women I encountered were friendly but shy, and they are often starkly absent from the public sphere, so you can’t rely on being able to seek shelter in their company. I was glad I’d made the effort to learn some words in Sinhalese – it helped break the ice.
One of the greatest challenges for me was that although so many people were friendly and helpful, some ostensibly ‘friendly’ conversations veered towards another goal, such as asking for money. ‘Are you married, Madam?’ was a common question and I found it easier to say ‘yes’. Bringing a fake wedding ring and maybe even a photo would have helped; I wasn’t asked about my availability while travelling with two male friends.
A female travelling companion didn’t get groped (as I did) but found that sometimes men got too close (such as in crowded temples). Her solution was to put her hands on her hips and use her elbows to create more personal space. Unlike other countries in South Asia, trying to publicly shame an offender had no effect. At first, I was under the impression that only foreign women are the subject of sexual harassment. However, I’ve since learned that unaccompanied Sri Lankan women also have to put up with it, and often carry a spare sari pin to ‘accidentally’ prick would-be gropers or frottage-artists.
But, overall, these issues were only hiccups in what was otherwise an extremely friendly and chivalrous cultural experience.
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT...
Packing a light suitcase – clothes can be readily bought in Colombo, Galle and Kandy.
Bringing along a windbreaker, parka or jumper for cool nights in the Hill Country.
Checking with a Sri Lankan embassy or consulate to see whether you need a visa.
Confirming what medicines or inoculations you need.
Checking government travel advisories for general security issues.
Building up your chilli tolerance.
Lonely Planet recommends World Nomads Travel insurance
