Destination: Syria

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL GUIDEBOOK INFORMATION

Dangers & Annoyances

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The main danger and annoyance common to both countries is the driving style. Those arriving from a country where the act of changing lanes dangerously can be the start of a road-rage incident will find the chaos coupled with courtesy either refreshing or life-threatening. In Lebanon particularly, little things like lane markers and traffic lights are treated with derision – akin to advice from someone you don’t particularly trust. If you are driving, try to relax and get into the swing of it. If you’re a pedestrian, never relax – you’re the last thing most drivers are thinking about.

Syria

Despite being depicted by the US administration and Western media as a terrorist training ground, Syria is an extremely safe country in which to travel. You can walk around virtually anywhere, at any time of the day or night without any problems. Syrians are friendly and hospitable and if someone invites you to their village or home you should accept their offer.

The general absence of theft is one of the most refreshing things about travelling in Syria. This is no excuse for inviting trouble through carelessness, but at least you don’t have to keep a hawk-like watch over your stuff as you do in other parts of the world.

The one niggle is overcharging. Independent travellers who have found their feet and at least look as though they know what they are doing will usually pay the standard price for transport, food etc, but in the end, few completely avoid the odd petty rip-off – a sad and perhaps inevitable by-product of increasing tourist traffic. Remember to keep in perspective the amount that you have been cheated out of and keep in mind that it doesn’t matter if you’re a sandal-wearing kid on a gap-year trek with one change of clothes and S£200 in your pocket. By comparison, you’re rich.

Lebanon

For a country that was lost in violent anarchy little more than a decade ago, it is amazing how safe Lebanon has become. Since the disarming and disbanding of the militias in the early 1990s, it has become possible to travel anywhere day or night without worries about security. There are frequent Lebanese and less frequent Syrian army checkpoints on the roads and occasionally you may be required to show your passport. This is usually just a formality but make sure you always carry it with you.

Currently, the main dangers to visitors wandering through the Lebanese countryside are land mines and unexploded ordnance. UN experts estimate that there are more than 100,000 and other explosive devices scattered over the area that was occupied by the Israelis for over 20 years. Do not wander off tracks, particularly in remote areas, and check with locals if you’re unsure.

Theft is a minor problem, but random crime is far lower than in most Western cities, although there has been a spate of motor-scooter bag snatchings. Power outages still occur occasionally in Beirut, but the duration of the outages is generally only a couple of minutes or so.


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