Destination: Turkey

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION

Itinerary: The Caravan Trail

TWO WEEKS / KUSADASI TO DIYARBAKIR

No camels and very little grunt is required on this 1800km adventure into Turkey’s lesser-known but magnificent hinterland. From tourist-trashed Kusadasi to sublimely exotic Diyarbakir, saddle up and hit the hans.



Caravanserais, dotting the routes of ancient trade routes, were once the ancient equivalent to the roadhouse. Today they’re renovated as historical sights and hotels, or are sadly crumbling away. All evoke the nights of snorting animals tethered in the courtyard, with the rooms above abuzz with the snores of travellers and merchants.

Spending a night at overblown Kusadasi is worth it for Club Caravanserai, the pleasant rooms playing second fiddle to the ‘Turkish Nights’ show in the courtyard. Plant your tongue in your cheek and enjoy. Head east to famous Pamukkale, but instead of the travertines admire the beautiful carved gateway of the Ak Han and the nearby Kaklik Cave, the underground ‘Pamukkale’ that tourists rarely see. Head north to Otel Dülgeroglu in Usak, now a mighty fine hotel. Continue north to Bursa’s Koza Han; visit in June or September to join in with the heaving throng engaging in the age-old haggle of the silk trade.

From Bursa, head east to the Cinci Han, as good excuse as any to visit the World Heritage–listed Ottoman town of Safranbolu. From Safranbolu head south to Cappadocia, a region with more caravanserais than fleas on a camel. Highlights include Agzikara Hani, the superb Sultanhani, Turkey’s largest caravanserai, and Sultan Han, runner up to that title. Sarihan and Saruhan both offer something slightly different. The first doubles as a set for whirling dervish sema and the latter is home to a mighty fine eatery.

From Cappadocia head east to pit stop at Battalgazi near Malatya. End your caravan journey in style at the atmospheric Otel Büyük Kervansaray in beguiling Diyarbakir, Kurdish heartland and a soulful city steeped in history.