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Itinerary: Lost Temples of the NorthWest
This is a tough trip with very little in the way of public transport. Realistically, it is going to take a week and should not be attempted in the wet season. Seasoned motorbike riders can do it on a dirt bike. For less pain, a 4WD is the way to go. It is possible by a combination of pick-up truck and moto, but not a whole lot of fun.
The magnificent temples of Angkor are renowned the world over for their serenity and splendour, but these represent no more than the capital of what was an unrivalled empire spanning much of mainland Southeast Asia. In the steaming jungles of Cambodia, forgotten to the world for centuries, lie several stunning religious monuments that make the perfect excuse to extend your stay by a week or more.
The beauty of this tough trip on rough roads is that it is the alternative, adventurous way to link Cambodia's vibrant capital, Phnom Penh, with sublime Siem Reap, gateway to Angkor. Starting out in Phnom Penh, head north through the provincial capital of Kompong Thom and on to the pre-Angkorian capital of Sambor Prei Kuk, the first temple city in Asia. Kiss goodbye to civilisation from here and make the tough journey northwest to the vast jungle temple of Preah Khan, one of the largest structures from the Angkorian period.
Continue on to Koh Ker, a usurper capital from the 10th century, with a wealth of massive monuments spread throughout the forest. Travel direct to Koh Ker via Khvau if you are brave, or go the easy way via Tbeng Meanchey, provincial capital of Preah Vihear Province, if you are taking your time.
Last of the temples is the king of the mountain temples, Prasat Preah Vihear, the height of Angkorian architectural audacity, its foundation stones stretching to the edge of a precipitous cliff. Breathe in the views as they are simply enormous. From here, it is a long run back to Siem Reap via the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng, where you can visit Pol Pot's cremation site.
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