Destination: Colombia

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL GUIDEBOOK INFORMATION

Dangers & annoyances

Colombia definitely isn’t the safest of countries, and you should be careful at all times. In fact, it was only a few years ago that Colombia was regarded as the ‘world’s most dangerous country’ and the ‘kidnapping capital of the world.’ The situation has vastly improved over recent years but there are still inherent dangers. Whatever you do, don’t let the rumors and urban legends scare you off. Within a day of arriving in Colombia you’ll feel your confidence quickly growing in the security situation.

SAFE TRAVEL

When traveling in Colombia, use common sense and don’t get paranoid. Travelers do come to Colombia and few have any problems. Here are some basic rules of safe travel in Colombia.

For your own personal safety:

• Unless the rural area you plan to visit is regarded as safe, make cities the focus of your travel rather than the countryside.
• Don’t accept any food, drink or cigarettes from strangers.
• Don’t venture into poor suburbs, desolate streets or suspicious-looking surroundings, especially after dark.
• Before arriving in a new place, make sure you have a map or at least a rough idea about orientation.
• Behave confidently on the street; don’t look lost or stand with a blank expression in the middle of the street.
• Use taxis if this seems the appropriate way to avoid walking through risky areas.

When traveling between cities:

• Consider air travel if the overland route is notorious for a lack of safety.
• Seek local advice about the safety of the region you are traveling in and the one you’re heading for.
• If traveling by bus, do so during the daytime.
• Don’t use a rented car
• Should you feel compelled to go off the beaten track, leave details about your planned whereabouts prior to departure.

To avoid the risk of theft:

• Keep your money and documents as secure as possible, preferably in a moneybelt next to your skin.
• Distribute your valuables about your person and luggage to avoid the risk of losing everything in one fell swoop.
• Wear casual and inexpensive clothes, preferably in plain, sober tones rather than in bright colors.
• Keep your camera out of sight as much as possible and only take it out to take a photo.
• Look around to see whether you’re being observed or followed, especially while leaving a bank, casa de cambio (currency-exchange office) or an ATM.
• Arrange comprehensive travel insurance just in case something goes wrong.

Theft & Robbery

Theft is the most common travelers’ danger. Generally speaking, the problem is more serious in the largest cities. The more rural the area, the quieter and safer it is. The most common methods of theft are snatching your day-pack, camera or watch, pickpocketing, or taking advantage of a moment’s inattention to pick up your gear and run away.

Distraction is often part of the thieves’ strategy. Thieves often work in pairs or groups; one or more will distract you, while an accomplice does the deed. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of possible ways to distract you, and new scams are dreamt up every day. Some thieves are even more innovative and will set up an opportune situation to separate you from your belongings. They may begin by making friends with you, or pretend to be the police and demand to check your belongings.

If you can, leave your money and valuables somewhere safe before walking the streets. In practice, it’s good to carry a decoy bundle of small notes, the equivalent of US$5 to US$10, ready to hand over in case of an assault; if you really don’t have a peso, robbers can become frustrated and, as a consequence, unpredictable.

Armed hold-ups in the cities can occur even in some more upmarket suburbs. If you are accosted by robbers, it is best to give them what they are after, but try to play it cool and don’t rush to hand them all your valuables at once – they may well be satisfied with just your decoy wad. Don’t try to escape or struggle – your chances are slim. Don’t count on any help from passers-by. Be careful when drawing cash from an ATM as some robberies have been reported. Criminals may watch you drawing money, then assault you either at an ATM or a convenient place nearby. It may be safer to get an advance from the cashier inside the bank, even if this takes a while.

Police

Colombian police have a mixed reputation. Cases of police corruption, abuse of power and use of undue authority have been known, so it’s probably best to stay a safe distance from them if you don’t need them. This, of course, doesn’t mean that they will stay away from you.

On a more positive note, there’s an increasing number of so-called tourist police. They are uniformed and easily recognizable by the Policía de Turismo labels printed on their arm bands. These forces have been formed and trained to attend to tourist needs and, accordingly, operate mainly in popular tourist destinations. They are usually friendlier and more helpful than ordinary police. If your passport, valuables or other belongings are stolen, go to the police station and make a denuncia (report). The officer on duty will write a statement according to what you tell them. It should include the description of the events and the list of stolen articles. Pay attention to the wording you use, make sure you include every stolen item and document, and carefully check the statement before signing it to ensure it contains exactly what you’ve said. Your copy of the statement serves as a temporary identity document and you will need to present it to your insurer in order to make a claim. Don’t expect your things to be found, as the police are unlikely to even try to do anything about it. If you happen to get involved with the police, keep calm and be polite, but not overly friendly. Don’t get angry or hostile – it only works against you. Keep a sharp eye out when they check your gear because things sometimes ‘disappear.’ Be wary of criminals masquerading as plainclothes police. They may stop you on the street, identify themselves with a fake ID, then ask to inspect your passport and money. Under no circumstances should you agree to a search. Call a uniformed police officer, if there happens to be one around, or decent-looking passers-by to witness the incident, and insist on phoning a bona fide police station. By that time, the ‘officers’ will probably walk discreetly away.

Drugs

Cocaine is essentially an export product but it is also available locally. More widespread is marijuana, and it is even more easily available. However, be careful about drugs – never carry them. The police and army can be very thorough in searching travelers.

Sometimes you may be offered dope on the street, in a bar or a disco, but never accept these offers. The vendors may well be setting you up for the police, or their accomplices will follow you and stop you later, show you false police documents and threaten you with jail unless you pay them off.

There have been reports of drugs being planted on travelers, so keep your eyes open. Always refuse if a stranger at an airport asks you to take their luggage on board as part of your luggage allowance. Needless to say, smuggling dope across borders is a crazy idea. Have you ever seen the inside of a Colombian prison?

BURUNDANGA

This is another security risk. Burundanga is a drug obtained from a species of tree widespread in Colombia and is used by thieves to render a victim unconscious. It can be put into sweets, cigarettes, chewing gum, spirits, beer – virtually any kind of food or drink – and it doesn’t have any noticeable taste or odor.

The main effect after a ‘normal’ dose is the loss of will, even though you remain conscious. The thief can then ask you to hand over your valuables and you will obey without resistance. Cases of rape under the effect of burundanga are known. Other effects are loss of memory and sleepiness, which can last from a few hours to several days. An overdose can be fatal.

Burundanga is not only used to trick foreign tourists – many Colombians have been on the receiving end as well, losing their cars, contents of their homes, and sometimes their life. Think twice before accepting a cigarette from a stranger or a drink from a new ‘friend.’

Guerrillas & Paramilitaries

There’s intense guerrilla and paramilitary activity in many regions, consequently the area of reasonably safe travel is limited. As a general rule, avoid any off-the-beaten-track travel. It’s best to stick to main routes and travel during daytime only. Yet, even main routes can be risky. Among these, the Popayán–Pasto road has possibly the worst reputation, although routes between Bogotá and the Caribbean coast area are much safer than they were in the early 2000s.

Many regions may be unsafe for travel. The entire area east of the Andes (except Leticia and its environs) should be avoided as it’s the guerrilla heartland. Parts of Cundinamarca, eastern Antioquia, Chocó, Córdoba, Magdalena, Bolívar, La Guajira, Cesar, southern Tolima, Valle del Cauca, Huila, Cauca and Nariño are considered high-risk areas due to the presence of guerrillas and paramilitaries. Kidnapping for ransom has been part of guerrilla activity for quite a while, although actual incidents are on the decrease. What’s important to note is that kidnappers are a very sophisticated group and acts of kidnapping are almost never random. The main targets are well-off locals and foreign executives and the ransoms start from US$1 million. Foreign tourists are not a target, mostly because they are not insured against kidnapping. From the kidnappers’ point of view, Colombian, Japanese or European businessmen are more worthwhile, as they are likely to fetch a US$5 million ransom. Americans are not targeted – the US government does not deal with kidnappers and will freeze the bank accounts of the victim and the victim’s family.

There’s no need to be paranoid, but you should be aware of the potential risks, and avoid the regions that are notorious for guerrilla activity. Air travel may be worth considering as a way of skipping over some unsafe regions, even though it may eat into your pocket.

Monitor current guerrilla movements. It’s not that easy because things change rapidly and unexpectedly, but the regional press and TV news can be useful. Possibly better and more specific is the advice of locals who best know what’s going on in their region. Also, inquire at regional tourist offices, travel agents and bus terminals. Ask other travelers along the way and check online resources. The Platypus in Bogotá really has its finger on the pulse of the country, and is a good starting point for information.