LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION
Itinerary: Marimbas & Mangroves
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TWO TO THREE WEEKS / THE NORTHERN COAST
Ecuador’s north coast has a magic all of its own. As you travel by boat, bus and beat-up-old pickup truck, this largely Afro-Ecuadorian region will open your eyes to a world most tourists never see – a world of giant mangroves, coastal fishing villages and nature reserves that seem forgotten by all but the friendly folks who live in and around them.
Ecuador’s northernmost coastal region is a land of giant mangroves, Afro-Ecuadorian culture, incredible biodiversity, extreme poverty and serious off-the-beaten-track travel. The rewards are great for those adventurous enough to undertake the journey. From
Quito, travel north to
Ibarra (which you can see in less than a day), and then northwest along the windy road to
San Lorenzo. From there, explore the rarely visited mangroves and forested islands of
Reserva Ecológica de Manglares Cayapas Mataje for a couple of days. Zip through the mangroves in a motorboat to the village of
Limones (stay only if you
really like the boondocks) and on to
La Tola. From La Tola walk 15 minutes to
Olmedo where you can spend the night and hike the following day to the
Manglares de Majagual, the tallest mangroves in the world.
Back in the boat, motor up to the where-the-hell-am-I town of
Borbón (worth a few hours) and continue by boat up the Río Cayapas to the settlement of
San Miguel. Continuing upriver will really get you into the wild, especially once you hit
Playa de Oro – a must-see jungle cat reserve – and the western reaches of
Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas, both worth a couple of days exploration. After finding your way back to the ocean, head southwest along the coast (this time by road) and spend a few days soaking up the sun in
Same or
Tonchigüe. Return to
Esmeraldas and jump on the next bus to Quito. Break the ride at
Mindo, where you can spend several days hiking in the cloud forests before the short bus ride back to the capital.
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