Destination: Guatemala

LONELY PLANET'S OFFICIAL ITINERARY INFORMATION

Itinerary: Across the Cuchumatanes

2 DAYS / HUEHUETENANGO TO COBAN

The 142km between Huehue and Coban are not quite so difficult to traverse as they were a few years ago, but they still represent a challenging trip of one or two days (depending on your connections and your karma!). You'll find full practical travel details for this route in the relevant town sections.

The road from Huehuetenango to Coban is almost all unpaved and always inspiring, with stunning, endlessly changing scenery and varied tableau’s of indigenous mountain life. From the northern end of the highlands, it takes hardy trippers straight into the center of the country.

Buses are not too common on some stretches of the route, and sometimes you may need to resort to pickups or trucks - which at least afford unimpeded 360 degree views. Starting high in the Cuchumatanes mountain range, you climb out of Huehuetenango en route to Aguacatan, where you're treated to panoramic views of pine-studded slopes and the fertile valleys below.

From Aguacatan the road snakes down through the Rio Blanco valley to Sacapulas on the Rio Negro. (If you want to detour to Nebaj, for a spot of hiking amid gorgeous Cuchumatanes scenery, you can get a Nebaj bus here.) From Sacapulas the road starts climbing again, up precipitous slopes, then winds down and up again to the neat, clean town of Uspantan, where you may need to spend the night. From Uspantan it's a direct shot down through beautifully forested countryside and the Mayan village of San Cristobal Verapaz to Coban. Sit on the right for views.

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