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Itinerary: Mixing Wine & Water
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Nothing beats a glass of wine and nothing beats a sauna and/or soak after one glass too many. So why not combine the two – wine and water – and indulge and detox as you go?
Eger is home to Hungary’s famous Egri Bikavér (Eger Bull’s Blood) and Pinot Noir and boasts thermal baths of its own. A mere 8km to the southwest is Egerszalók, a hot spring set to become one of northern Hungary’s biggest spas.
The celebrated Tokaj region nestling in the foothills of the Zemplén Hills to the northeast is awash with sweet wine and sweet water. You won’t find much thermal water in these parts but there’s swimming in the Tisza River, and the curative waters of the Cave Bath at Miskolctapolca and the Végardó recreational complex in Sárospatak are only a hop, skip and plunge away.
Sopron is one of the most important wine regions of western Hungary and the surrounding hills produce such notable red wines as Kékfrankos and Merlot. Here you’ll also find the large Lovér Baths, a great place to relax after a night on the town. To the southeast, on the way to Lake Balaton, is the Somló region, which has two great and indigenous grape varieties: Hárslevelu (Linden Leaf) and Juhfark (Sheep’s Tail).
The northern shore of the Balaton – particularly around Badacsony produces some of Hungary’s finest wines, notably Olaszrizling (Italian Riesling) and Kéknyelu (Blue Stalk). Swimming in the lake from Badacsonytomaj is pleasant but if you want to ‘take the waters’ in what is one of the world’s largest thermal lakes, head to Hévíz.
The Villány-Siklós region , in southwest Hungary, is home to the nation’s best reds: Kékoportó (Blauer Portugieser), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. They are almost always big-bodied Bordeaux-style wines that are high in tannins. Should you have overindulged, get thee to the spa town of Harkány, a short distance to the west, where everything centres round the cure-all thermal baths.
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