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Early Birds

USA | Fri, 11 Apr 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [28923]

NO TRIP TO THE HOUSTON AREA would be complete without a visit to Sabine Woods Audubon Sanctuary—at least for birders like us. Yes, we know we’re here too soon for the Spring migration but we’re hoping to see a few of those famous Early ... Read more >

Our Grand Tour Continues

USA | Sun, 6 Apr 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [28997]

AFTER TWO WEEKS OF SLOTH ON FLORIDA’S Turquoise Coast we’re back on our Grand Tour. This leg took us through Alabama and Mississippi to Barksdale Air Force Base, Louisiana. After our 8-hour journey from Pine Island to Destin, the two-hour ... Read more >

Old Man and the Sea

COSTA RICA | Wed, 5 Mar 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [29774]

OUR SPIRITS NEEDED A JOLT OF COSTA RICAN Pura Vita before returning to the sturm und drang of the USA and a condo in the beach town of Jaco was just the ticket. This is our fourth visit to Costa Rica, we’ve already covered most of the country ... Read more >

Back in the USA

USA | Mon, 10 Mar 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [24256]

IT’S BEEN TWO AND A HALF YEARS since Hurricane Ian crashed through Fort Myers and just a single lane on the only bridge connecting Pine Island to the mainland is open. On-going construction regularly stops traffic dead. Businesses along Pine Island ... Read more >

Nuevo Vigia Embera Village

PANAMA | Fri, 21 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [11966]

OF PANAMA’S ROUGHLY ONE THOUSAND BIRDS, seven are found only in Panama. With our previous birding birding trips in nearby Columbia we had already seen all but 90 of the species. No, problem, though. This trip was not jus about birds—it was ... Read more >

Crested Eagle Trek

PANAMA | Tue, 18 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [11932]

ANOTHER EARLY START TODAY, first a van to Yaviza and followed by another panga ride on the Chucunaque River to El Real and onward by truck to the Embera village of Pijibasal where our Crested Eagle trek would begin.     Our Guide ... Read more >

A Very Harpy Birthday

PANAMA | Mon, 17 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [11929]

SUNDAY WAS AN EASY DAY, as if Oscar wanted to test our mettle. Breakfast at 6:15 followed by three hours of birding on Sendero el Balsal. This isn’t primary rain forest—much of it is a teak plantation—so we all piled into the back of ... Read more >

Darién Canopy Camp

PANAMA | Sat, 15 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [6480]

BIRDING IN DARIÉN HAS BEEN ON OUR RADAR for years. Until recently the logistics and cost were daunting, the rivers were frequented by drug smugglers and illegal immigrants and decent lodging was non-existent.        ... Read more >

Land of the Iguanas

ECUADOR | Sat, 8 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [6390]

THERE ARE TWO WAYS THAT ANIMALS originally arrived  in the Galapagos—a sea voyage or via the friendly skies. Blown offshore by winds, birds—just like seeds—eventually reached the islands. Animals that are strong swimmers like sea ... Read more >

Endemic Birds of the Galapagos

ECUADOR | Mon, 10 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [6282]

DARWIN’S FINCHES ARE THE BEST-KNOWN of the one hundred or so resident bird species in the Galapagos. They may have inspired his theory of evolution but the seventeen species are actually in the tanager family—they are not even closely related ... Read more >

Three Faces of Panama City

PANAMA | Thu, 13 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [6167]

WITH A LAUNDRY BAG FULL OF DIRTY CLOTHES and a few days to kill before we headed to the Darién rain forest, we booked an AirBnB just outside Casco Antiguo, Panama City’s Old Quarter.             ... Read more >

Harbin Ice & Snow Festival

CHINA | Sat, 15 Feb 2025 | By kiwiaoraki | Views [6070]

The People’s Republic of China (PRC) and I have always had a complicated relationship. She’s like that lady who likes to make her own rules and make everything difficult for some unknown reason, yet you still feel that you should give her ... Read more >

Marshall Islands Feb 2025

MARSHALL ISLANDS | Sun, 9 Feb 2025 | By shaz | Views [6069]

My flight was the island hopper so I have 2 stops, Kosrae where I'm allowed to get off and Kwajalein where I'm not allowed to do anything even move as it's a military base airport. Hah when has that stopped me especially the photos of the amazing sunset ... Read more >

Pre-Inca Peru: The Sacred City of Caral

PERU | Wed, 22 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [1012]

WITH APOLOGIES TO RED SKELTON, we flew in to Lima yesterday and, boy, are our arms tired! The flight was only three hours long but after getting up 2:30 in the morning for the only direct flight from Salta, it’s not just our arms but our entire ... Read more >

Giant Tortoises of the Galapagos

ECUADOR | Fri, 7 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [657]

THE JURY IS STILL OUT as to whether “ galapágo ” is an old Spanish word for “saddle” or for “tortoise” which the saddles resembled. Either way, the Galapagos would be nothing without the giant tortoises that ... Read more >

Pre-Inca Peru: El Brujo

PERU | Mon, 27 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [627]

BASED UPON THE CARVINGS AT EL BRUJO, the Moche weren’t the friendliest people—pretty much what you would expect from people ruled by Warrior-Priests who worshipped a god known as Decapitator at a site called El Brujo (sorcerer) by the Spanish ... Read more >

Chilean Fjords and Brujo Glacier

CHILE | Fri, 6 Dec 2024 | By graynomadsusa | Views [615]

EVEN FOUR DECKS UP, SPRAY FROM the bow streamed down our balcony windows. Oosterdam had been fighting gale-force winds and three-meter waves since we sailed back into the Pacific. Everyone was weaving like winos on a Friday night and the west wind ... Read more >

Pre-Inca Peru: Cerro Sechín and Chanquillo

PERU | Thu, 30 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [580]

WE DECIDED TO BYPASS CERRO SECHIN and Chankillo on our way north and save them for our return to Lima. Photos of Cerro Sechin depicted intricate carvings on real rock, not mudstone, and we figured we would see much more at the site. Not.  ... Read more >

Salinas Grandes

ARGENTINA | Fri, 17 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [518]

CARLOS WENT OUT OF HIS WAY to show us some of his Jujuy (hoo-hoo-ay) Province. Yesterday we drove 300 kilometers from Chicoana to Salinas Grandes, stopping only for lunch in Purmamarca at the spectacular Hotel El Manantial del Silencio, undeniably the ... Read more >

Returning to the Galapagos

ECUADOR | Thu, 6 Feb 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [505]

DURING A “WHILE WE’RE HERE” MOMENT we booked a trip to the Galapagos. We had visited the archipelago fifteen years ago, five days exploring the older eastern and southern islands. This time we’re on an 8-day trip on a luxury yacht ... Read more >

From Sea to Shining Sea—The Panama Canal

PANAMA | Mon, 18 Nov 2024 | By graynomadsusa | Views [504]

THE PANAMA CANAL IS AN ENGINEERING MARVEL with a touch of political chicanery and a soupçon of colonialism thrown in for flavor. It was prohibitively expensive to build at the beginning of the Twentieth Century, both in dollars and lives lost ... Read more >

Pre-Inca Peru: Chavín de Hauntar

PERU | Fri, 24 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [484]

THE ROAD FROM HUACHO TO HUARAZ took five hours, had hundreds of hairpin turns and climbed 13,000 feet into the Andean Cordillera Blanca before descending to the sprawl that is Huaraz. Our suite at Villa Valencia was another gem, the equal of many of ... Read more >

Falkland Islands—It's All About Penguins

FALKLAND ISLANDS | Tue, 10 Dec 2024 | By graynomadsusa | Views [464]

FOR GREAT BRITAIN THE FALKLAND ISLANDS are strategic. For Argentina Islas Malvinas are a matter of Pride. For Oosterdam , it’s all about penguins! Colonies of Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins—even some King Penguins—nest on the islands ... Read more >

Mossbacks Rounding the Horn

ARGENTINA | Mon, 9 Dec 2024 | By graynomadsusa | Views [428]

WE ARE OFFICIALLY “MOSSBACKS” and have the right to wear a hoop earring in our left ear. “Rounding the Horn” doesn’t have the same significance today that it did in the days of wooden sailing ships—especially today-... Read more >

Tilcara and Abra Pampa

ARGENTINA | Sun, 19 Jan 2025 | By graynomadsusa | Views [400]

WHENEVER CONNIE ASKED CARLOS when we could hope to see a particular bird on her hit list, he replied, “Abra Pampa.” Well, here we are—or as near as possible with decent lodging, restaurants and at a “reasonable” altitude ... Read more >

 

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